Ernest and Edible: Top Paddock

For meeting in the middle

658 Church Street, Richmond Vic 3121

Coffee with palate-cleansing bubbles

Top Paddock, brought to you by the creators of Three Bags Full and Two Birds One Stone, enjoys a crossover clientele: south-of-the-river style and gloss meet north-of-the-river eccentricity and boho charm. Apparently, here at the top of Church St is where the twain deign to meet. The tall, tanned, metallic-topped and hair-straightened arrive from Chapel St and Toorak Rd; the slightly more dishevelled, vintage-wearing and bicycle-riding set make the trip from Bridge Rd and beyond. The result is a friendly, hip and eclectic crowd, quickly filling the vast designer spaces indoors and out to enjoy quality culinary creations delivered at down-to-earth prices.

Deceptively simple from the outside

The cafe itself is a lot like its customers: a little from column A, a little from column B. At first glance from a distance the outside is underwhelming, a monotonous grey of concrete and glass – more department store eatery than urban secret chic. (Secret it certainly is not – tables turn in an exercise in perpetual motion.) Move a little closer though, and warmer elements present themselves: the vegetable boxes lined up outside the entrance; the funky functional outdoor 'road sign' seating – park your butt on No Parking, sit on No Standing, do 0 km/hr in an 80 zone... Indoors reveals more of the award-winning fit-out – the light fixtures, the functional use of space, the polished metal and cool tiles of the bar juxtaposed with the textured wood grain of the tables.

Award-winning interior design

A little bit country

A little bit rock 'n' roll

At the end of the day, though, even a well-designed, uber stylish cafe will live or die by the quality of its service and product. Top Paddock delivers on both fronts.

The operation is slick – I mentioned the rapid turnover of tables. Staff make it all seem effortless, clearing plates, taking orders and checking in with just the right frequency but not intruding on conversations; time between ordering and receiving was spot on, too.

The coffee. After a bad night's sleep with poorly child, oh how I was looking forward to a good coffee. And then my long black came out accompanied by a tiny glass of sparkling water. Posh!

As for the food, the microherbs, edible flowers and berries used in plating made for impossibly pretty porridge and drunken ginger bread. My chilli eggs didn't have the popping colour of my friends' dishes, but the chilli kick cut through the creamy feta and scrambled egg; all three dishes were delicious. Again the impression of getting the best of both worlds – there's finesse in the plating but also good-size portions; flavour-bursting but not wallet-busting.

As a typical northern suburbanite, I normally venture south about as often as I whip out the hair straighteners, but I'll head back to Top Paddock. The grass is very green.